Do it For Fun

Electronic Terrorism

2010-08-02T21:31:00.001-07:00

It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a
rational, intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a
(direct) confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile
inwardly---your revenge is already planned.
Step 1: follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you
have chosen your target site, lay low for a week or more,
letting your anger boil.
Step 2: in the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist
kit(details below.)
Step 3: plant your kit at the designated target site on a monday
morning between the hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a
calm, suggestive note that quietly hints at the possibility
of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An example of
an effective note:
"don't be such a jerk, or the next one will take off your
hand. Have a nice day."
Notice how the calm tone instills fear. As if written by a
homicidal psychopath.
Step 5: choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try
to position yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
Step 6: sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile,
economic, and effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
1) 4 aa batteries
2) 1 9-volt battery
3) 1 spdt mini relay (radio shack)
4) 1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
5) 1 solar ignitor (any hobby store)
6) 1 9-volt battery connector

Step 1: take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil.
This circuit should also include a pair of contacts that when
separated cut off this circuit. These contacts should be held together
by trapping them between the locker,mailbox, or car door.
Once the door is opened, the contacts fall apart and the 9-volt circuit
is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the closed postion
thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing take a
look at the schematic below.)

Step 2: take the 4 aa batteries and wire them in succession.
Wire the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of another,
until all four are connected except one positive terminal and one negative
terminal. Even though the four aa batteries only combine to create 6
volts, the increase in amperage is necessary to activate the solar
ignitor quickly and effectively.

Step 3: take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it
to the relay's single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar
ignitor. Then wire the other prong of the solar ignitor back to the open
position on the relay.

Step 4: using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker,
mailbox, or car door. And last, insert the solar ignitor into the
rocket engine (smoke bomb or m-80).

Your kit is now complete!

---------><---------
I (CONTACTS) I
I I
I - (BATTERY)
I ---
I I
I (COIL) I
------///////-------
/-----------
/ I
/ I
/ I
(SWITCH) I I
I I
I --- (BATTERY)
I - ( PACK )
I ---
I
I I
---- -----
I I
*
(SOLAR IGNITOR)

Clear Box Plan

2010-08-02T21:29:00.000-07:00

The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be
used throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on
"PostPay" payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones
that don't require payment until after the connection is established.
You pick up the fone, get a dial tone, dial your number, and then
insert your money after the person answers.
If you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on
the other end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece.
(obviously these phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or
other such recordings). All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio
Shack, or electronics store, and get a four-transistor amplifier and a
telephone suction cup induction pick-up. The induction pick-up would be
hooked up as it normally would to record a conversation, except
that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier and a
microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party
that is being called answers, the caller could speak through the little
microphone instead. His voice then goes through the amplifier and out
the induction coil, and into the back of the receiver where
it would then be broadcast through the phone lines and the other
partywould be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will
not be cut-off after a certain amount of time because it will wait
forever for the coins to be put in.
The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is the
fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common.
Due to a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF,
dial-tone-first service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment,
(for the phone company) This payphone will work on any phone line.
Usually a payphone line is different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does all the charging, not the company.

Ripping off Change Machines

2010-08-02T21:26:00.000-07:00

Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports
laundrymats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5
dollar bill? Well then, here is an article for you.

1) Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length
wise, not the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the
tray in!!!
2) After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling
up into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly
surface.
3) Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the
left side about 1/2 inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4) If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is:
when you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine.
When it gets to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the
machine will reject the bill and (if you have done it right)
give you the change at the same time!!! So, you end up getting your bill
back, plus the change!! It might take a little practice, but once
you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of money!
!--------------------------------!
! !
! (1) /-------\ (1) !
! ! ! !
! ! Pic. ! !
! (1) /\ \-------/ (1) !
! !! !
!-----/ \-----------------------!
\-------Make notch here. About 1/2 " down from (1)

P.S. Sorry for the "text work" but you should be able to get the
idea. Have fun!!!

More Ways to Send a Car to Hell

2010-08-02T21:25:00.002-07:00

Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14.
I have left the original intact. This expands upon the original
idea, and could be well called a sequal. -----Ex.

How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest
someone, and I mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your
spare time. Move the windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue
tacks. The tacks make lovely designs. If your "friend" goes to
school with you, Just before he comes out of school. Light a lighter
and then put it directly underneath his car door handle.
Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he
made it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately
1 Cup of gas in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts.
Then you have a cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter.
This one is effective, and any fool can do it. Remove the top
air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but goodie: sugar in the gas tank.
Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe. Then you wonder why
your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one that takes
time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're
into engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it.
They wonder why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but
the real good juicy ones come by thinking hard.

Calcium Carbide Bomb

2010-08-02T21:25:00.001-07:00

This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some
calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and
can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this
stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some
water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to
produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in
cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal
pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
fireball!

Brown Box Plans

2010-08-02T21:24:00.000-07:00

This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does
is allow you to take any two lines in your house and create a party
line. So far I have not heard of anyone who has any problems
with it. There is one thing that you will notice when you are
one of the two people who is called by a person with a brown box. The other
person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome this with some
amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made [Why not?].
I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once will
make up for any minor volume loss.

Here is the diagram:
---------------------------------------
KEY:___________________________________
| PART | SYMBOL |
|---------------------------------|
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| YELLOW WIRE | = |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
| VERTICAL WIRE | | |
| HORIZONTAL WIRE | _ |
-----------------------------------
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
*******_/_++++++
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____PHONE____|

Blowgun

2010-08-02T21:23:00.003-07:00

In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture
of a powerfull blow-gun and making darts for the gun.The possesion of
the blow gun described in this article IS a felony.
So be carefull where you use it. I don't want to get you all busted.

Needed:

1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece)
2. A regular pencil
3. A 2 1/4 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not
obtainable,wrap tape around end of needle.
4. 2-3 1/4 foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter

Constructing the dart:

1st- Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser)
of the pencil till it comes off.
2nd- Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then
push them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (orthe tape).
3rd- Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4th- That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)

#####
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin

Using the Darts:

1st- Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube
(if it is too small put on more yarn.)
2nd- Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3rd- blow on the end of the pipe.
4th- Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I
suggest you wrap it with some black electrician tape.It should feel
a lot better.

The Infamous Blotto Box!!

2010-08-02T21:23:00.001-07:00

(I bet that NOONE has the balls to build this one!)

Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived!
Well, for you people who are unenlightened about the Blotto Box,
here is a brief summery of a legend.

--*-=> The Blotto Box <=-*--

For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first
made as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that
the function of it actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage
Master, it is possible. Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame,
the Blotto Box is finally available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed
in the file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and
should not be actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse
machine could have the severe results listed below and could result in
high federal prosecution! Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY!
All right, now that that is cleared up, here is the basis of the box
and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its
knee's with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone
lines everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area
code, and no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for
that matter. As long as the switching system stays the same, this box will
not stop at a mere area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical
impulses that emit from this box will open every line. Every line will
ring and ring and ring... the voltage will never be cut off until the
box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt job, here.
We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and people
close to the box may be electricuted if they pick up the phone.
But, the Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator.
If they are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take
a while for the box to calm back down again, but that is merely a
superficial aftereffect. Once again: Construction and use of this box is
not advised! The Blotto Box will continue as long as there is
electricity to continue with.
OK, that is what it does, now, here are some interesting things for you
to do with it...

-*-=>Blotto Functions/Installin'<=-*-

Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The
following are the instructions for construction and use of this box.
Please read and heed all warnings in the above section before you attempt
to construct this box.

Materials:
- A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a
stadium or some such place.
- 400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a
phone line jack.
- A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
- A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that
you see around in your neighborhood. They are the main switch
boards and would be a more effective line to start with.
or: A regular phone jack (not your own, and not in your area
code!
- A soldering iron and much solder.
- A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes,
I will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of
the other listed equiptment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make
sure it is one on the ground or hanging at head level from a pole,
not the huge ones at the top of telephone poles. Open it up with anything
convienent, if you are two feeble that fuck don't try this.
Take a look inside... you are hunting for color-coordinating lines of
green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and rip the meter thing
off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level to set the
voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the cord
and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord
into the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off.
Open it up and match the red and green wires with
the other red and green wires. NOTE: If you just had the generator on
and have done this in the correct order, you will be a crispy critter.
Keep the generator off until you plan to start it up. Now, solder those
lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insultation tape around all
of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the startup
of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file
first, you still realize now that your area code is about to become
null! Then, getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your
damn life. Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating
so much electricity that if you stand to close you will kill yourself.
The generator will smoke, etc. but will not stop. You are now killing your
area code, because all of that energy is spreading through all of the
phone lines around you in every direction.

Have a nice day!

--*-=>The Blotto Box: Aftermath<=-*--
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).

Black Box Plans

2010-08-02T21:22:00.001-07:00

Introduction:
------------
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20
Volts. When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings
the bell. When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts.
The phone company pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10,
they start billing the person who called you.

Function:
--------
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts,
so that it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled
into thinking you never answered the phone and does not bill the caller.
However, after about a half hour the phone company will get suspicious
and disconnect your line for about 10 seconds.

Materials:
---------
1 1.8K 1/2 Watt Resistor
1 1.5V LED
1 SPST Switch

Procedure:
---------
(1) Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and
lifting the case off.
(2) There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working
with the Red Wire.
(3) Connect the following in parallel:
A. The Resistor and LED.
B. The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
!---/\/\/\--O--!
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
!-----_/_------!
/\/\/\ = Resistor
O = LED
_/_ = SPST

Use:
---
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings,
the LED flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage
is kept at 36V, so the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box
is on, you will not get a dial tone and thus cannot make calls.
Also remember that calls are limited to half an hour.

------------Exodus

p.s. Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this
may or may not work in your area. If you live in bumfuck Kentucky,
then try this out. I make no guarantees! (I never do...)

Phone Systems Tutorial III

2010-08-02T21:19:00.000-07:00

PREFACE:

THIS ARTICLE WILL FOCUS PRIMARILY ON THE STANDARD WESTERN ELECTRIC SINGLE-
SLOT COIN TELEPHONE (AKA FORTRESS FONE) WHICH CAN BE DIVIDED INTO 3 TYPES:
- DIAL-TONE FIRST (DTF)
- COIN-FIRST (CF): (IE, IT WANTS YOUR $ BEFORE YOU RECEIVE A DIAL TONE)
- DIAL POST-PAY SERVICE (PP): YOU PAYAFTER THE PARTY ANSWERS

DEPOSITING COINS (SLUGS):
-------------------------
ONCE YOU HAVE DEPOSITED YOUR SLUG INTO A FORTRESS, IT IS SUBJECTED TO A
GAMUT OF TESTS. THE FIRST OBSTACAL FOR A SLUG IS THE
MAGNETIC TRAP. THIS WILL STOP ANY LIGHT-WEIGHT MAGNETIC SLUGS AND COINS.
IF IT PASSES THIS, THE SLUG IS THEN CLASSIFIED AS A NICKEL, DIME, OR
QUARTER. EACH SLUG IS THEN CHECKED FOR APPROPRIATE SIZE AND WEIGHT. IF THESE
TESTS ARE PASSED, IT WILL THEN TRAVEL THROUGH A NICKEL, DIME, OR QUARTER
MAGNET AS APPROPRIATE. THESE MAGNETS SET UP AN EDDY CURRENT EFFECT WHICH
CAUSES COINS OF THE APPROPRIATE CHARACTERISTICS TO SLOW DOWN SO THEY
WILL FOLLOW THE CORRECT TRAJECTORY. IF ALL GOES WELL, THE COIN WILL FOLLOW THE
CORRECT PATH (SUCH AS BOUNCING OFF OF THE NICKEL ANVIL) WHERE IT WILL
HOPEFULLY FALL INTO THE NARROW ACCEPTED COIN CHANNEL.
THE RATHER ELABORATE TESTS THAT ARE PERFORMED AS THE COIN TRAVELS DOWN THE
COIN CHUTE WILL STOP MOST SLUGS AND OTHER UNDESIRABLE COINS, SUCH AS
PENNIES, WHICH MUST THEN BE RETRIEVED USING THE COIN RELEASE LEVER.
IF THE SLUG MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVES THE GAMUT, IT WILL THEN STRIKE THE
APPROPRIATE TOTALIZER ARM CAUSING A RATCHET WHEEL TO ROTATE ONCE FOR EVERY
5-CENT INCREMENT (EG, A QUARTER WILL CAUSE IT TO ROTATE 5 TIMES).
THE TOTALIZER THEN CAUSES THE COIN SIGNAL OSCILLATOR TO READOUT A DUAL-
FREQUENCY SIGNAL INDICATING THE VALUE DEPOSITED TO ACTS (A COMPUTER) OR THE
TSPS OPERATOR. THESE ARE THE SAME TONES USED BY PHREAKS IN THE INFAMOUS RED
BOXES. FOR A QUARTER, 5 BEEP TONES ARE
OUTPULSED AT 12-17 PULSES PER SECOND (PPS). A DIME CAUSES 2 BEEP TONES AT
5 - 8.5 PPS WHILE A NICKEL CAUSES ONE BEEP TONE AT 5 - 8.5 PPS. A BEEP
CONSISTS OF 2 TONES: 2200 + 1700 HZ. A RELAY IN THE FORTRESS CALLED THE "B
RELAY" (YES, THERE IS ALSO AN 'A RELAY') PLACES A CAPACITOR ACROSS THE
SPEECH CIRCUIT DURING TOTALIZER READOUT TO PREVENT THE "CUSTOMER" FROM
HEARING THE RED BOX TONES. IN OLDER 3 SLOT PHONES: ONE BELL
(1050-1100 HZ) FOR A NICKEL, TWO BELLS FOR A DIME, AND ONE GONG (800 HZ) FOR A
QUARTER ARE USED INSTEAD OF THE MODERN DUAL-FREQUENCY TONES.

=============
=TSPS & ACTS=
=============

WHILE FORTRESSES ARE CONNECTED TO THE CO OF THE AREA, ALL TRANSACTIONS ARE
HANDLED VIA THE TRAFFIC SERVICE POSITION SYSTEM (TSPS). IN AREAS THAT
DO NOT HAVE ACTS, ALL CALLS THAT REQUIRE OPERATOR ASSISTANCE, SUCH AS
CALLING CARD AND COLLECT, ARE AUTOMATICALLY ROUTED TO A TSPS OPERATOR
POSITION. IN AN EFFORT TO AUTOMATE FORTRESS
SERVICE, A COMPUTER SYSTEM KNOWN AS AUTOMATED COIN TOLL SERVICE (ACTS) HAS
BEEN IMPLEMENTED IN MANY AREAS. ACTS LISTENS TO THE RED BOX SIGNALS FROM THE
FONES AND TAKES APPROPRIATE ACTION. IT IS ACTS WHICH SAYS, "TWO DOLLARS PLEASE
(PAUSE) PLEASE DEPOSIT TWO DOLLARS FOR THE NEXT TEN SECONDS" (AND OTHER
VARIATIONS). ALSO, IF YOU TALK FOR MORE THAN THREE MINUTES AND THEN HANG-UP,
ACTS WILL CALL BACK AND DEMAND YOUR MONEY. ACTS IS ALSO RESPONSIBLE FOR
AUTOMATED CALLING CARD SERVICE. ACTS ALSO PROVIDE TROUBLE DIAGNOSIS FOR
CRAFTSPEOPLE (REPAIRMEN SPECIALIZING IN FORTRESSES). FOR EXAMPLE, THERE IS A
COIN TEST WHICH IS GREAT FOR TUNING UP RED BOXES. IN MANY AREAS THIS TEST CAN
BE ACTIVATED BY DIALING 09591230 AT A FORTRESS (THANKS TO KARL MARX FOR THIS
INFORMATION). ONCE ACTIVATED IT WILL REQUEST THAT YOU DEPOSIT VARIOUS COINS.
IT WILL THEN IDENTIFY THE COIN AND OUTPULSE THE APPROPRIATE RED BOX
SIGNAL. THE COINS ARE USUALLY RETURNED WHEN YOU HANG UP.
TO MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ACTUALLY MONEY IN THE FONE, THE CO INITIATES A
"GROUND TEST" AT VARIOUS TIMES TO DETERMINE IF A COIN IS ACTUALLY IN THE
FONE. THIS IS WHY YOU MUST DEPOSIT AT LEAST A NICKEL IN ORDER TO USE A RED
BOX!

GREEN BOXES:
------------

PAYING THE INITIAL RATE IN ORDER TO USE A RED BOX (ON CERTAIN FORTRESSES)
LEFT A SOUR TASTE IN MANY RED BOXER'S MOUTHS THUS THE GREEN BOX WAS INVENTED.
THE GREEN BOX GENERATES USEFUL TONES SUCH AS COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND
RINGBACK. THESE ARE THE TONES THAT ACTS OR THE TSPS OPERATOR WOULD SEND TO
THE CO WHEN APPROPRIATE. UNFORTUNATELY, THE GREEN BOX CANNOT BE USED AT A
FORTRESS STATION BUT IT MUST BE USED BY THE CALLED PARTY.

HERE ARE THE TONES:
COIN COLLECT 700 + 1100 HZ
COIN RETURN 1100 + 1700 HZ
RINGBACK 700 + 1700 HZ
BEFORE THE CALLED PARTY SENDS ANY OF THESE TONES, AN OPERATOR RELEASED
SIGNAL SHOULD BE SENT TO ALERT THE MF DETECTORS AT THE CO. THIS CAN BE
ACCOMPLISHED BY SENDING 900 + 1500 HZ OR A SINGLE 2600 HZ WINK (90 MS)
FOLLOWED BY A 60 MS GAP AND THEN THE APPROPRIATE SIGNAL FOR AT LEAST 900 MS.
ALSO, DO NOT FORGET THAT THE INITIAL RATE IS COLLECTED SHORTLY BEFORE THE 3
MINUTE PERIOD IS UP. INCIDENTALLY, ONCE THE ABOVE MF TONES
FOR COLLECTING AND RETURNING COINS REACH THE CO, THEY ARE CONVERTED INTO
AN APPROPRIATE DC PULSE (-130 VOLTS FOR RETURN & +130 VOLTS FOR COLLECT). THIS
PULSE IS THEN SENT DOWN THE TIP TO THE FORTRESS. THIS CAUSES THE COIN RELAY
TO EITHER RETURN OR COLLECT THE COINS. THE ALLEGED "T-NETWORK" TAKES ADVANTAGE
OF THIS INFORMATION. WHEN A PULSE FOR COIN COLLECT (+130 VDC) IS SENT DOWN
THE LINE, IT MUST BE GROUNDED SOMEWHERE. THIS IS USUALLY EITHER THE
YELLOW OR BLACK WIRE. THUS, IF THE WIRES ARE EXPOSED, THESE WIRES CAN BE
CUT TO PREVENT THE PULSE FROM BEING GROUNDED. WHEN THE THREE MINUTE
INITIAL PERIOD IS ALMOST UP, MAKE SURE THAT THE BLACK & YELLOW WIRES ARE
SEVERED; THEN HANG UP, WAIT ABOUT 15 SECONDS IN CASE OF A SECOND PULSE,
RECONNECT THE WIRES, PICK UP THE FONE, HANG UP AGAIN, AND IF ALL GOES WELL IT
SHOULD BE "JACKPOT" TIME.

PHYSICAL ATTACK:
----------------

A TYPICAL FORTRESS WEIGHS ROUGHLY 50 LBS. WITH AN EMPTY COIN BOX. MOST OF
THIS IS ACCOUNTED FOR IN THE ARMOR PLATING. WHY ALL THE SECURITY? WELL,
BELL CONTRIBUTES IT TO THE FOLLOWING: "SOCIAL CHANGES DURING THE 1960'S
MADE THE MULTISLOT COIN STATION A PRIME TARGET FOR: VANDALISM, STRONG ARM
ROBBERY, FRAUD, AND THEFT OF SERVICE. THIS BROUGHT ABOUT THE INTRODUCTION OF
THE MORE RUGGED SINGLE SLOT COIN STATION AND A NEW ENVIRONMENT FOR COIN
SERVICE." AS FOR PICKING THE LOCK, I WILL QUOTE MR. PHELPS:
"WE OFTEN FANTASIZE ABOUT 'PICKING THE LOCK' OR 'GETTING A MASTER
KEY.' WELL, YOU CAN FORGET ABOUT IT. I DON'T LIKE TO DISCOURAGE PEOPLE, BUT
IT WILL SAVE YOU FROM WASTING ALOT OF OUR TIME--TIME WHICH CAN BE PUT TO
BETTER USE (HEH, HEH)." AS FOR PHYSICAL ATTACK, THE COIN PLATE
IS SECURED ON ALL FOUR SIDE BY HARDENED STEEL BOLTS WHICH PASS THROUGH TWO
SLOTS EACH. THESE BOLTS ARE IN TURN INTERLOCKED BY THE MAIN LOCK.
ONE PHREAK I KNOW DID MANAGE TO TAKE ONE OF THE 'MOTHERS' HOME (WHICH WAS
ATTACHED TO A PIECE OF PLYWOOD AT A CONSTRUCTION SITE; OTHERWISE, THE
PERMANENT ONES ARE A BITCH TO DETACH FROM THE WALL!). IT TOOK HIM ALMOST
TEN HOURS TO OPEN THE COIN BOX USING A POWER DRILL, SLEDGE HAMMERS, AND CROW
BARS (WHICH WAS EMPTY -- PERHAPS NEXT TIME, HE WILL DEPOSIT A COIN FIRST TO
HEAR IF IT SLUSHES DOWN NICELY OR HITS THE EMPTY BOTTOM WITH A CLUNK.)
TAKING THE FONE OFFERS A HIGHER MARGIN OF SUCCESS. ALTHOUGH THIS MAY BE
DIFFICULT OFTEN REQUIRING BRUTE FORCE AND THERE HAS BEEN SEVERAL CASES OF
BACK AXLES BEING LOST TRYING TO TAKE DOWN A FONE! A QUICK AND DIRTY WAY TO
OPEN THE COIN BOX IS BY USING A SHOTGUN. IN DETROIT, AFTER ECOLOGISTS
CLEANED OUT A MUNICIPAL POND, THEY FOUND 168 COIN PHONE RIFLED.
IN COLDER AREAS, SUCH AS CANADA, SOME SHREWD PEOPLE TAPE UP THE FONES USING
DUCT TAPE, POUR IN WATER, AND COME BACK THE NEXT DAY WHEN THE WATER WILL HAVE
FROZE THUS EXPANDING AND CRACKING THE FONE OPEN.
IN ONE CASE, "UNAUTHORIZED COIN COLLECTORS" WHERE CAUGHT WHEN THEY
BROUGHT $6,000 IN CHANGE TO A BANK AND THE BANK BECAME SUSPICIOUS...
AT ANY RATE, THE MAIN LOCK IS AN EIGHT LEVEL TUMBLER LOCATED ON THE RIGHT SIDE
OF THE COIN BOX. THIS LOCK HAS 390,625 POSSIBLE POSITIONS (5 ^ 8, SINCE THERE
ARE 8 TUMBLERS EACH WITH 5 POSSIBLE POSITIONS) THUS IT IS HIGHLY PICK
RESISTANT! THE LOCK IS HELD IN PLACE BY 4 SCREWS. IF THERE IS SUFFICIENT
CLEARANCE TO THE RIGHT OF THE FONE, IT IS CONCEIVABLE TO PUNCH OUT THE SCREWS
USING THE DRILLING PATTERN BELOW (PROVIDED BY ALEXANDER MUNDY IN TAP #32):

====================================
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-1/2"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
!!
!!
(Z) KEYHOLE (+) SCREWS
!!
===================================

AFTER THIS IS ACCOMPLISHED, THE LOCK CAN BE PUSHED BACKWARDS DISENGAGING
THE LOCK FROM THE COVER PLATE. THE FOUR BOLTS OF THE COVER PLATE CAN THEN
BE RETRACTED BY TURNING THE BOLTWORKS WITH A SIMPLE KEY IN THE SHAPE OF THE
HOLE ON THE COIN PLATE (SEE DIAGRAM BELOW). OF COURSE, THERE ARE OTHER
METHODS AND DRILLING PATTERNS.

:-------------------------------------:
_
! !
( )
!_!
[ROUGHLY]
DIAGRAM OF COVER PLATE KEYHOLE
:-------------------------------------:

THE TOP COVER USES A SIMILAR (BUT NOT AS STRONG) LOCKING METHOD WITH THE
KEYHOLE DEPICTED ABOVE ON THE TOP LEFT HIDE AND A REGULAR LOCK (PROBABLY
TUMBLER ALSO) ON THE TOP RIGHT-HAND SIDE. IT IS INTERESTING TO EXPERIMENT
WITH THE COIN SHUTE AND THE FORTRESSES OWN "RED BOX" (WHICH BELL DIDN'T HAVE
THE 'BALLS' TO COLOR RED).

MISCELLANEOUS:
--------------

IN A FEW AREAS (RURAL & CANADA), POST-PAY SERVICE EXISTS. WITH THIS TYPE OF
SERVICE, THE MOUTHPIECE IS CUT OFF UNTIL THE CALLER DEPOSITS MONEY WHEN
THE CALLED PARTY ANSWERS. THIS ALSO ALLOWS FOR FREE CALLS TO WEATHER AND
OTHER DIAL-IT SERVICES! RECENTLY, 2600 MAGAZINE ANNOUNCED THE CLEAR BOX WHICH
CONSISTS OF A TELEPHONE PICKUP COIL AND A SMALL AMP. IT IS BASED ON THE›
RINCIPAL THAT THE RECEIVER IS ALSO A WEAK TRANSMITTER AND THAT BY AMPLIFYING
YOUR SIGNAL YOU CAN TALK VIA THE TRANSMITTER THUS AVOIDING COSTLY
TELEPHONE CHARGES! MOST FORTRESSES ARE FOUND IN THE 9XXX
AREA. UNDER FORMER BELL AREAS, THEY USUALLY START AT 98XX (RIGHT BELOW THE
99XX OFFICIAL SERIES) AND MOVE DOWNWARD.
SINCE THE LINE, NOT THE FONE, DETERMINES WHETHER OR NOT A DEPOSIT
MUST BE MADE, DTF & CHARGE-A-CALL FONES MAKE GREAT EXTENSIONS!
FINALLY, FORTRESS FONES ALLOW FOR A NEW HOBBY--INSTRUCTION PLATE COLLECTING.
ALL THAT IS REQUIRED IS A FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER AND A PAIR OF NEEDLE-NOSE
PLIERS. SIMPLY USE THE SCREWDRIVER TO LIFT UNDERNEATH THE PLATE SO THAT YOU
CAN GRAB IT WITH THE PLIERS AND YANK DOWNWARDS. I WOULD SUGGEST COVERING THE
TIPS OF THE PLIERS WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE TO PREVENT SCRATCHING. TEN CENT PLATES
ARE DEFINITELY BECOMING A "RARITY!"

FORTRESS SECURITY:
------------------

WHILE A LONELY FORTRESS MAY SEEM THE PERFECT TARGET, BEWARE! THE GESTAPO
HAS BEEN KNOWN TO STAKE OUT FORTRESSES FOR AS LONG AS 6 YEARS ACCORDING TO THE
GRASS ROOTS QUARTERLY. TO AVOID ANY PROBLEMS, DO NOT USE THE SAME FONES
REPEATEDLY FOR BOXING, CALLING CARDS, & OTHER EXPERIMENTS. THE TELCO KNOWS HOW
MUCH MONEY SHOULD BE IN THE COIN BOX AND WHEN ITS NOT THERE THEY TEND TO GET
PERTURBED (READ: PISSED OFF).

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

--------Jolly Roger

p.s. This was originally written back in my old Apple ][ days,
hence the upper case. I just did not think I should waste the
little time I have to work on this shit converting it to lower-
case. Hell, I thought 80-columns was pretty nice of me.. heh heh.
Well, enjoy this and the rest of this Cookbook! ---------JR

-------[=How to Kill Someone==]------------[=WITH YOUR BARE HANDS=]-----

2010-08-02T21:17:00.000-07:00

AN EXCERPT FROM THE ANARCHISTS COOKBOOK II.....
Courtesy of Exodus

This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell
of the best places to strike and kill an enemy...
When engaged in hand-to-hand combat, your life is always at stake.
There is only one purpose in combat, and that is to kill your enemy.
Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out.
The chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead.
When a weapon is not available, one must resort to the full
use of his natural weapons. The natural weapons are:

1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. and Teeth.

Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never
won by defensive action. Attack with all of your strength.
At any point or any situation, some vulnerable point on your enemies
body will be open for attack. Do this while screaming as screaming has
two purposes.

1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put
more oxygen in your blood stream. Your balance and balance of your
enemy are two inportant factors; since, if you succeed in making
your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to
one that you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all
stance is where your feet are spread about shoulders width apart,
with your right foot about a foot ahead of the left. Both arms
should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other. Stand on the
balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kinda of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can
throw your enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of
the body. We will cover them now:

Eyes:Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.

Nose:(Extremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand
along the bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary
blindness, and if the blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow
with the heel of your hand in an upward motion, this›will shove the
bone up into the brain causing death.

Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you
get the chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This
should sever the wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of
minutes.

Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard
enough, it will cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down,
kick him in the temple, and he'll never get up again.

Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of
the neck can easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to
use the butt of a gun or some other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are
extrememly close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme
pain, and unconciosness.

Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping
motion over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations
caused from the clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause
internal bleeding in the brain.

Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee
hard, and he'll buckle over very fast.

Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very
close to the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge
of your hand can cause death.

There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should
work best for the average person. This is meant only as information
and I would not recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl.
Use these methods only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger.
Any one of these methods could very easily kill or cause permanent damage
to someone. One more word of caution, you should practice these moves
before using them on a dummy, or a mock battle with a friend.
(You don't have to actually hit him to practice, just work on accuracy.)

Hindenberg Bomb

2010-08-02T21:16:00.000-07:00

Needed:1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumr
1 Piece Aluminum FoilL
1 Length Fuse

Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumr and add a little piece of
aluminum foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until
the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable
hydrogen.
Now tie the baloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise.
When the fuse contacts the balloon, watch out!!!

Aqua Box Plans

2010-08-02T21:14:00.000-07:00

Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreadded F.B.I. 'Lock In Trace.'
For a long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace.
This box does offer an escape route with simple directions to it.
This box is quite a simple concept, and almost any phreaker with basic
electronics knowledge can construct and use it.

The Lock In Trace
------------------
A lock in trace is a device used by the F.B.I. to lock into the phone
users location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress.
For those of you who are not familiar with the conecpt of 'locking in',
then here's a brief desciption. The F.B.I. can tap into a conversation,
sort of like a three-way call connection. Then, when they get there,
they can plug electricity into the phone line. All phone connections
are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are
calling far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line
up. What the lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same
voltage straight into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage
is retained. Your phone will ring just like someone was calling you
even after you hang up. (If you have call waiting, you should understand
better about that, for call waiting intersepts the electricity and makes
a tone that means someone is going through your line. Then, it is a matter
of which voltage is higher. When you push down the receiver,then it see-saws
the electricity to the other side. When you have a person on each line
it is impossible to hang up unless one or both of them will hang up.
If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your phone will ring.
That should give you an understanding of how calling works. Also, when
electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the electricity
causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring to sound.)
So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time
someone else picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease
a little. In the first steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting
about a hundred phones all hooked into the same line that could all
be taken off the hook at the same time. That would greatly decrease the
voltage level. That is also why most three-way connections that are using
the bell service three way calling (which is only $3 a month) become quite
faint after a while. By now, you should understand the basic idea. You
have to drain all of the power out of the line so the voltage can
not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could quickly short out
the F.B.I. voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage nessecary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine
this. One of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go
pick up that one end of the cord that hooks into the central box has a
phone jack on it and the other has an electrical plug. This way, you
can "flash" voltage through the line, but cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.

Materials
----------
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type
connection, where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug
into a light bulb.
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your
own... Same voltage connection, but the restrainor must be built in (I.E.
The central box)
Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to
plug the aqua box into)
Some creativity and easy work.

*Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so
don't go out and buy a new phone for it!

Procedure
---------
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having
that is you are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into
the electrical appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock
you in with.
1)Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have
only two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the
electrical appliance is turned off unless you wanna become a crispy critter
while making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the
top of them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside.
Well, remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...)
then just cut the top off. When you look inside, Lo and Behold,
you will see that at the base of the prongs there are a few wires
connecting in. Those wires conduct the power into the appliance.
So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides and pull them out until
they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you don't wanna keep the
jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover the prongs with
insultation tape so they will not connect with the wires when the power
is being drained from the line.
2)Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the
wires evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other.
If you happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the
phone, stop reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After
you've wrapped the wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with
the plugs with insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box
or if you bought one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it.
That box is your ticket out of this.
3)Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty
flimsy connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at
it then you can solder away at it and form the whole device into one
big box, with some kind of cheap mattel hand-held game inside to be
the power connector. In order to use it, just keep this box handy.
Plug it into the jack if you want, but it will slightly lower the
voltage so it isn't connected. When you plug it in, if you see sparks,
unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if it just seems fine then leave it.

Use
----
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this
unless the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't
panic, unplug your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked
to. It will need energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source...
The voltage to keep a phone line open is pretty small and a simple light
bulb should drain it all in and probably short the F.B.I. computer at
the same time.

Happy boxing and stay free!

Basic Alliance Teleconferencing

2010-08-02T21:13:00.000-07:00

Introduction:
------------
This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance
Teleconferencing Systems.... it has many sections and for best use should
be printed out...enjoy...

Alliance:
--------
Alliance Teleconferencing is an independant company which allows the general
public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have
been floating apound that Alliance is a subsidary of AT&T.
Well, they are wrong. As stated above, Alliance is an entirely independant
company. They use sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many
people at once.

The Number:
---------
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not
in a way. Alliance is only in certain states, and only
residents of these certain states can access by dialing direct. This,
however, will be discussed in a later chapter. The numbers for alliance are
as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (chicago)
-1001 (los angeles)
-1002 (chicago)
-1003 (houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)

The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and i have stated them.
However, the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definately known.
Rumor has it that the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.

Dialing:
-------
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states
can access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your
residence to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without
having it billed to ones house. They are as follows:

1) Dialing through a PBX
2) Incorporating a Blue Box
3) Billing to a loop
4) Billing to a forwarded call

I am sure there are many more but these are the four i will deal with.

Dialing through a PBX:
------- ------- - ---
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX.
Simply call one in a state that has Alliance, input the PBX's code,
dial 9 for an outside line and then dial alliance.
An example of this would be:

PBX: 800-241-4911

When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.

Code: 1234

After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.

Using a Blue Box:
----- - ---- ---
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box.
The following procedure is how to box a conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099
When the party answers hit 2600hz. This will cause the fone company's
equipment to think that you have hung up. You will hear a
You have now 'seized' a trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency
and dial:

KP-0-700-456-x00x-ST
KP=KP tone on Blue Box
x=variable between 1 and 3
ST=ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her
switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing
is such a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.

Billing to a loop:
------- -- - ----
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a
loop. A loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk
to each other. You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be
usefull to phreaks. First, dial alliance direct. After going
through the beginning procedure, which will be discussed later in this
tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance operator. When she answers
tell her you would like to bill the conference to such and such a
number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She will then
call that number to receive voice verification.
Of course your phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges.
Thus, the conference is billed to the loop.

Billing to call forwarding:
------- -- ---- ----------
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by
the original location, then forwarded. The original location will
hang up if 2600hz is received from only ond end of the line.
Therefore, if you were to wait after the forwarded residence answered,
you would receive the original location's dial tone.

Example:
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second
type of ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers
simply wait until they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will
then receive the original residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz
from one end of the line. Simply dial Alliance from this point and the
conference will be billed to the original residence.
These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.

Logon Procedure:
----- ---------
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their
way of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?'
Simply type in a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance
you are on, between 10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the
conference size and inout another or hit '#' to continue.
You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and are only seconds away from
having your own roaring conference going strong!!!

Dialing in Conferees:
------- -- ---------
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.

npa=area code
pre=prefix
suff=suffix

If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call
will be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key.
This will add them to the conference.
Now commence dialing other conferees.

Joining Your Conference:
------- ---- ----------
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key.
Within a second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies.
To go back into control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.

Transferring Control:
------------ -------
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the
# 6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after,
you wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.

:Transfer of control is often not available. When you
receive a message stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.

Muted Conferences:
----- -----------
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly
sure what a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted
eavesdroppers from listening in.

Dialing Alliance Operators:
------- -------- ---------
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.

Ending Your Conference:
------ ---- ----------
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including
yourself off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds
simply hang up. Your conference is over.

Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
--- -------- --------- ---------
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having
a conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no
way harmful, just a little aggravating.

Alliance and Tracing:
-------- --- -------
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can.
But this has to all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's
really a large hastle, therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply
does not want it known that teenagers are phucking them over.
The only sort of safety equipment Alliance has on-line is a simple pen
register. This little device simply records all the numbers of the
conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up that persons
number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do nothing because
all you did was answer your fone.

:Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance
recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those
commands plus information gathered by either myself or the phellow
phreaks of the world!!!

(written by the Trooper)

Phone Systems Tutorial part II

2010-08-02T21:01:00.000-07:00

Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office
heirarchy, & switching equipment.

Operators
~~~~~~~~~

There are many types of operators in the network and the more
common ones will be discussed.

TSPS Operator:

The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) ass opposed to This
Shitty Phone Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard,
for the female libertationists out there) that most of us are used
to having to deal with. Here are his/her responsibilities:

1) Obtaning billing information for calling card or third number
calls

2) Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.

3) Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.

4) Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling
# is not automatically recorded by CAMA (Centralized Automatic
Message Accounting) & forwarded from the local office. This could
be caused by equipment failures (ANIF- Automatic Number
Identification Failure) or if the office is not equipped for CAMA
(ONI- Operator Number Identification).

came on and said, "What # are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity,
I gave her the number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was
connected to a conversation that appeared to be between a frameman
& his wife. Then it started ringing the party I wanted to
originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!

You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which
number that you are calling from. Your number will show up on a
10-digit LED read-out (ANI board). She also knows whether or not
you are at a fortress phone & she can trace calls quite readily!
Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST DANGEROUS.

INWARD operator:

This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operatorin connecting
calls. She will never question a call as long as the call is
withing HER SERVICE AREA. She can only be reached via other
operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you would dial
KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect
any calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in
a future file).

DIRECTORY ASSISTANCE Operator:

This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411
or NPA-555-1212. She does not readily know where you are calling
from. She does not have access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES
know if an unlisted # exists for a certain listing.

There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who
use teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45.5
baud). One modem that I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat
acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic modem. Yea I know they are hard
to find... but if you wanna do this.. look around!) then you can
call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The # is:
800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your
regular operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being
talked out of information through the process of "social
engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.

bullshitted with one of these operators a while back and I found
out that there are 2 such DA offices that handle TTY. One is in
Philadelphia and the other is in California. They have approx. 7
operators each. most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that
they are under-paid. They actually call up a regular DA # to
process your request (sorry, no fancy computers!)

Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing
KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).

CN/A operators:

CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what
directory assistance operators are for. In my experience, these
operators know more than the DA op's do & they are more
susceptable to "social engeneering." It is possible to bullshit a
CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA # (ie, you give them the name &
they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due
to the fact that they assume that you are a fellow company
employee. Unfortunately, the AT&T breakup has resulted in the
break-up of a few NON-PUB DA #'s and policy changes in CN/A

INTERCEPT Operator:

The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when
there are notenough recordings available to tell you that the #
has been disconnected or changed. She usually says, "What # you
callin'?" with a foreign accent. This is the lowest operator
lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are calling from,
it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.

Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.

OTHER Operators:

And then there are the: MObile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine
Verify, "Leave Word and Call Back," Rout & Rate
(KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special operators who have one
purpose or another in the network.

Problems with an Operator> Ask to speak to their supervisor... or
better yet the Group Chief (who is the highest ranking official in
any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame ina whorehouse.

By the way, some CO's that willallow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the
4th digit, will also allow you to call special operators & other
fun Tel. Co. #'s without a blue box. This is ver rare, though! For
example,212-121-1111 will get you a NY Inward Operator.

Office Hierarchy
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is
assigned an office name and class. There are five classes of
offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO is most likely a class 5 or
end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are switched by a toll
office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is also a
class 4X office callen an intermediate point. The 4X office is a
digital one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it
(known as a Remote Switching Unit (RSU)).

The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of
those office exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:

Class Name Abb # Existing
----- ----------------------- --- -----------------
> 1 Regional Center RC 12
> 2 Sectional Center SC 67
> 3 Primary Center PC 230
> 4 Toll Center TC 1,300
> 4P Toll Point TP n/a
> 4X Intermediate Point IP n/a
> 5 End Office EO 19,000
> 6 RSU RSU n/a

When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching
equipment usually tries to find the shortest route between the
class 5 end office of the caller & the class 5 end officeof the
called party. If no inter-office trunks exist between the two
parties, it will then move upward to the next highest office for
servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be
sent to the next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The
switching equipment first uses the high-usage interoffice trunk
groups, if they are busy then it goes to the fina; trunk groups on
the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected, you will
probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are
probably shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded
Network Dreadlock (as seen on TV!).

It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is
called ring-around-the-rosy and it has never occured in telephone
history. This would cause an endless loop connection [a neat way
to really screw up the network].

The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all
interconnected. they form the foundation of the entire telephone
network. Since there are only 12 of them, they are listed below:

Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
-------------------------------- ---
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504

That's it for now! More info to come Future update to the
Cookbook! Have fun!

Phone Systems Tutorial

2010-08-02T21:00:00.000-07:00
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic
as well as international dialing. We will also take a look at the
telephone numbering plan.

North American Numbering Plan
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:

A) a 3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , ie, area code
B) a 7 digit telephone # consisting of a 3 digit Central Office
(CO) code plus a 4 digit station #

These 10 digits are called the network address or destination
code. It is in the format of:

Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------

N*X NXX-XXXX

Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9

Area Codes
~~~~~~~~~~

Check your telephone book or the seperate listing of area codes
found on many bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):

510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)

The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state
must have at least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is
split by a state line, the CO #'s are often interchangeable (ie,
you can dial the same number from two different area codes).

TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are
owned by Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other
TWX machines. These run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most
likely faster now!). Besides the TWX #'s, these machines are
routed to normal telephone #'s. TWX machines always respond with
an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is (910) 279-5956. The
answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".

If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX
messages using Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have
to hack your way onto this one!

700:

700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is
targeted towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this
works, I'll explain it with an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig
works for AT&T security and he is on the run chasing a phreak
around the country who royally screwed up an important COSMOS
system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Everytime
Joe goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a
special 700 #, enters a code, and the number where he is staying.
Now, if his boss received some important info, all he would do is
dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring wherever Joe last progammed
it to. Neat, huh?

800:

This SAC is one of my favourites since it allows for toll free
calls. INWARD WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area
Telecommunications Service is the 800 #'s that we are all familiar
with. 800 #'s are set up in service areas or bands. There are 6 of
these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6 # from
anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated
(that is why most companies have one 800 number for the countery
and then another one for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48
contiguous states. All the way down to band 1 which includes only
the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less people can
reach a band 1 INWATS # than a band 6 #.

Intrastate INWATS #'s (ie, you can call it from only 1 state)
always have a 2 as the last digit in the exchange (ie, 800-NX2-
XXXX). The NXX on 800 #'s represent the area where the business is
located. For example, a # beginning with 800-431 would terminate
at a NY CO.

800 #'s always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it
tries the first # allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if
this is busy, it will try the next #, etc. You must have a minimum
of 2 lines for each 800 #. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt
series. If you dial (800) 521-8400, it will first try the #
associated with 8400; if it is busy it will go to the next
available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number of
hours of calls made to their #.

OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls
only. Largecompanies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate
discounts. Since OUTWATS numbers cannot have incoming calls, they
are in the format of:

(800) *XXX-XXXX

Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a
letter) which cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX
identifies the type of service and the areas that the company can
call.

Remember:

INWATS + OUTWATS = WATS EXTENDER

900:

This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for
taking television polls and other stuff. The first minute
currently costs an outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional
minute costs 35-85 cents. Hell takes in a lot of revenue this way!

Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.

CO CODES
~~~~~~~~

These identify the switching office where the call is to be
routed. The following CO codes are reserved nationwide:

555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services

Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test
and are thus reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.

You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code
(unless using a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these
exchanges (000-199) contains all sorts of interesting shit such as
conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.

950:

Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:

1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline

These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress
phones! Also, the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with
the introduction of Equal Access

Plant Tests:

These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.

976:

Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many
bbs's have listings of these numbers.

N11 codes:
----------
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in
most areas.

011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
911 - EMERGENCY

International Dialing
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9
numbering zones. To make an international call, you must first
dial: International Prefix + Country code + National #

In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for
station-to-station calls. If you can dial International #'s
directly in your area then you have International Direct Distance
Dialing (IDDD).

The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the
world numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country
code for the United Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering
zone 4. Some boards may contain a complete listing of other
country codes, but here I give you a few:

1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)

If you call from an area other than North America, the format is
generally the same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call
the White House from Switzerland to tell the prez that his
numbered bank account is overdrawn (it happens, you know! ha ha).
First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international dialing refix),
then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national # for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him
the bad news!)

Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, ie,
calling ships:

871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)

International Switching:
------------------------

In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform
the duty of ISC (Inter-nation Switching Centers). All
international calls dialed from numbering zone 1 will be routed
through one of these "gateway cities". They are:

182 - White Plains, NY
183 - New York, NY
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
185 - Orlando, Fl
186 - Oakland, CA
187 - Denver, CO
188 - New York, NY

The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to
be furthur discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use
a signaling service called CCITT.It is an international standard
for signaling.

Ok.. there you go for now! If you wanna read more about this, read
part two which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!

A different kind of Molitoff Cocktail

2010-08-02T20:59:00.000-07:00
Here is how you do it:

- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full

- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight

- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.

- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!

How to make a landmine

2010-08-02T20:58:00.000-07:00
First, you need to get a pushbutton switch. Take the wires of it
and connect one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to
a solar igniter (used for launching model rockets). A very thin
piece of stereo wire will usually do the trick if you are
desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire of
the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire
from the switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.

switch-----------battery
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
|
|
|
explosive

Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO2 bomb, etc.) to the
igniter by attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch
tape). Now dig a hole; not too deep but enough to cover all of the
materials. Think about what direction your enemy will be coming from
and plant the switch, but leave the button visible (not TOO
visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from the switch
because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its
burning speed. But if you get it right... and your enemy is close
enough......... BBBBBBBOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMM! hahahaha

Phone Taps

2010-08-02T20:55:00.000-07:00
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a
simple wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder
control relay to the phone line.

First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different
types of taps. there are transmitters, wired taps, and induction
taps to name a few. Wired and wireless transmitters must be
physically connected to the line before they will do any good.
Once a wireless tap is connected to the line,it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the
house can even be modifies to pick up conversations in the room
and transmit them too! These taps are usually powered off of the
phone line, but can have an external power source. You can get more
information on these taps by getting an issue of Popular
Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the
other hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the
line to the listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious
advantages of wireless taps over wired ones. There is one type of
wireless tap that looks like a normal telephone mike. All you have
to do is replace the original mike with thisand itwill transmit
all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap known
as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook
one of these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone
calls the tapped phone & *before* it rings,blows a whistle over
the line, the transmitter picks up the phone via a relay. The mike
on the phone is activated so that the caller can hear all of the
conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone test at
415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one
of these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you
will hear a click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps
that must be physically wired to the phone. They do not have to be
touching the phone in order to pick up the conversation. They work
on the same principle as the little suction-cup tape recorder
mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.

Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes
the conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber
cubes into the cradle. The called party can still hear all
conversations in the room. When someone picks up the phone, the
cubes fall away unnoticed.

A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is
doing when you are wardialing, hacking, or just plain calling a
bbs (like the White Ruins! Denver, Colorado! 55 megs online!
Atari! Macintosh! Amiga! Ibm! CALL IT! 303-972-8566! By the way, i
did this ad without the sysops consent or knowledge!).

Here is the schematic:
-------) !----) ! (------------->
) ! (
Cap ^ ) ! (
) ! (
) ! (
) ! (
^^^^^---) ! (------------->
^ 100K
!
!

The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest
(least resistance) setting if you hook a speaker across the
output. but it should be set on its highest resistance for a tape
recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary to add another
10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping &
thinking that you have the phone off of the hook. the audio output
transformer is available at Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for
input). The red & the white wires go to the output device. You may
want to experiment with the transformer for the best output.
Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the the end of one of the relay & the ther
end just loop around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:

------^^^^^^^^^------------
---------
RELAY^^
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)

If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to
physically inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You
can get mike replacements with bug detectors built in. However, I
would not trust them too much. It is too easy to get a wrong
reading.

For more info:

BUGS AND ELECTRONIC SURVEILANCE from Desert Publications
HOW TO AVOID ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not
remember who this one is from... you might want to try Paladin
Press.

Chemical Equivalency list

2010-08-02T20:54:00.002-07:00
Acacia..................................................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid................................................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide..............................................Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate...................................Alum
Aluminum Sulfate..............................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.......................................Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide.........................................Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate.......................................Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate............................................Bananna Oil
Barium Sulfide...........................................Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate.............................................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride.................................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride..............................Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide.................................................Lime
Calcium Sulfate...................................Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid..............................................Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide........................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride.....................................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide.............................................Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde............................................Bran Oil
Glucose.................................................Corn Syrup
Graphite...............................................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid....................................Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.........................................Peroxide
Lead Acetate.........................................Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide...........................................Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate............................................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate.......................................Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate..................................Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene..............................................Mothballs
Phenol...............................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate..............................Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate..............................Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate.......................................Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide..................................................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate.....................................Baking Soda
Sodium Borate................................................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride...............................................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide...............................................Lye
Sodium Silicate..............................................Glass
Sodium Sulfate......................................Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate.............................Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.........................................Battery Acid
Sucrose.................................................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate.........................................White Vitriol

Brought to you in the Anarchist's CookBook 4.14..

Home-brew blast cannon

2010-08-02T20:54:00.001-07:00
Materials needed:

-1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in
diameter
-1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in
diameter
-1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
-1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small
pipe
-5 feet of bellwire
-1 SPST rocker switch
-16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery
-15v relay (get this at Radio Shack)
-Electrical Tape
-One free afternoon

Procedure:

- Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends

- Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as
the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe.
they should screw together easily.

- Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape,
then attach it to the level on the lighter:

/------------------------gas switch is here
V
/------
!lighter!!<---metal lever
!!!
!!

Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from
the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your
lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.

- Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch

- Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the
switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top.
Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out
of the top.

- Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should
rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out
gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the
trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes
well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'

- Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.

1---------------
v/
2--------------/<--- the center object is the metal finger inside
3 the relay
cc-------------/
oo----------------4
ii
ll----------------5

Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect
the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the
battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little
'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some
tiny little sparks.

- Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to
the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)

- You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.

- Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY.
You are now ready for the first trial-run!

To Test:

Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it
fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will
probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a
shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing
(trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!). Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch.
With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a
frozed orange through 1/4 or plywood at 25 feet.

Have fun!

Under water igniters

2010-08-02T20:50:00.002-07:00
Materials needed:

-Pack of 10 silicon diodes (available at Radio Shack. you will
know you got the right ones if they are very, very small glass
objects!)
-Pack of matches
-1 candle

Procedure:

- Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the
top.

- Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode
against the head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that
one wraps in an upward direction and thensticks out to the side.
Do the same with the other wire, but in a downward direction. The
diodes should now be hugging the matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT
TOUCH EACH OTHER!

- Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These
work underwater

- repeat to make as many as you want

How to use them:

When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode
reaches what is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical
components reach this voltage, they usually produce great amounts
of heat and light, while quickly melting into a little blob. This
heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These are recommended for
use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work. ENJOY!

LIGHTBULB BOMBS 2

2010-08-02T20:50:00.001-07:00
An automatic reaction to walking into a dark room is to turn on the
light. This can be fatal, if a lightbulb bomb has been placed in the overhead
light socket. A lightbulb bomb is surprisingly easy to make. It also comes
with its own initiator and electric ignition system. On some lightbulbs, the
lightbulb glass can be removed from the metal base by heating the base of a
lightbulb in a gas flame, such as that of a blowtorch or gas stove. This must
be done carefully, since the inside of a lightbulb is a vacuum. When the glue
gets hot enough, the glass bulb can be pulled off the metal base. On other
bulbs, it is necessary to heat the glass directly with a blowtorch or
oxy-acetylene torch. In either case, once the bulb and/or base has cooled down
to room temperature or lower, the bulb can be filled with an explosive
material, such as black powder. If the glass was removed from the metal base,
it must be glued back on to the base with epoxy. If a hole was put in the
bulb, a piece of duct tape is sufficient to hold the explosive in the in the
bulb. Then, after making sure that the socket has no power by checking with a
working lightbulb, all that need be done is to screw the lightbulb bomb into
the socket. Such a device has been used by terrorists or assassins with much
success, since few people would search the room for a bomb without first
turning on the light.

How to make Potassium Nitrate

2010-08-02T20:49:00.002-07:00
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other
things. Here is how you make it:

Materials needed:

-3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
-1/2 cup of wood ashes
-Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
-2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the
bottom of the bucket
-Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
-Shallow, heat resistant container
-2 gallons of water
-Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
-1 gallon of any type of alcohol
-A heat source
-Paper & tape

Procedure:

- Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the
metal is"puckered" outward from the bottom

- Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom

- Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers
the entire cloth and has about the same thickness.

- Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes

- Place the dirt or other material in the bucket

- Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need
support on the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not
blocked.

- Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour
it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.

- Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the
bottom.

- Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!

- Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so

- Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the
sludge in the bottom

- Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small
grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper as they
form

- When the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its original volume let
it sit

- After 1/2 hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this
mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals appear. This
is the posassium nitrate.

Purification:

- Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water

- Remove any crystals that appear

- Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution
to dryness.

- Spread out crystals and allow to dry

Fuses

2010-08-02T20:49:00.001-07:00
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what
falls under the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just
have a few lying around, or know where to get them. Well, in some
parts of the country, fuses are extremely hard to come by... so
this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses presented
here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.

SLOW BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (approx. 2 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

- Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
- Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
- Granulated sugar

Procedure:

- Wash the cotton string or showlaces in HOT soapy water, then
rinse with fresh water

- Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water

- Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution

- Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry

- Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!

FAST BURNING FUSE
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ (40 inches per minute)

Materials needed:

-Soft cotton string
-fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
-shallow dish or pan

Procedure:

- moisten powder to form a paste

- twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together

- rub paste into string and allow to dry

- Check the burn rate!!!

Unlisted Phone Numbers

2010-08-02T20:48:00.002-07:00
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if
this one will help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated
to assigning numbers to the telephone wire pairs. These offices
are called DPAC offices and are available to service reps who are
installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number, a service
rep would call the customer service number for billing information
in the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get
the unlisted number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go
something like this: "Hi, Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown
business office, I need the DPAC number for the south side of
town." This info is usually passed out with no problems, so... if
the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER,
no one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on
the phone, so you can be anyone you damn well please! (heheheheh!)
When you call the DPAC number, just tell them that you need a
listing for either the address that you have, or the name. DPAC
DOES NOT SHOW WHETHER THE NUMBER IS LISTED OR UNLISTED!! Also, if
you're going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might
want to check into geting a criss-cross directory, which lists
phone numbers by their addresses. It costs a couple-a-hundred bux,
but it is well worth it if you have to chase more than one or two
numbers down!

Diskette Bombs

2010-08-02T20:48:00.001-07:00
You need:

- A disk
- Scissors
- White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
- Clear nail polish

- Carefully open up the diskette (3.5" disks are best for this!)

- Remove the cotton covering from the inside.

- Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper,
metal might spark the matchpowder!)

- After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.

- Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture

- Let it dry

- Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish
to seal it shut on the inside (where it came apart).

- When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read
the disk, which causes a small fire (ENOUGH HEAT TO MELT THE DISK
DRIVE AND FUCK THE HEAD UP!!). ahahahahaha! Let the fuckhead try
and fix THAT!!!

Tennis Ball Bombs

2010-08-02T20:47:00.001-07:00
Ingredients:

- Strike anywhere matches
- A tennis ball
- A nice sharp knife
- Duct tape

Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis
ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't
fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is
real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the
street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!

How to make a fertilizer bomb

2010-08-02T20:46:00.000-07:00
Ingredients:

- Newspaper
- Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
- Cotton
- Diesel fuel

Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it.
Then put cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and
run like you have never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet
so don't do it in an alley!!

How to make Napalm

2010-08-02T20:45:00.002-07:00
- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.

- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.

- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!

The easiest way to hotwire cars

2010-08-02T20:45:00.001-07:00
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it enclosed, forget it
unless you want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the
ignition. Once you get behind or near the ignition look for two
red wires. In older cars red was the standard color, if not, look
for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and take
off!

Mail Box Bombs

2010-08-02T20:44:00.000-07:00
(1) Two litre bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)

Small amount of sugar

Small amount of water

Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the
bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to
believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox
in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this,
though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person
whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.

smoke bomb!

2010-08-02T20:43:00.002-07:00
Here is the recipe for one helluva smoke bomb!

4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)

Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well.
Pour it into a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a
few matches into the mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this
stuff will fill up a whole block with thick, white smoke!

Highway radar jamming

2010-08-02T20:43:00.001-07:00
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will
invest in one of those expensive radar detectors. However, this
device will not work against a gun type radar unit in which the
radar signal is not present until the cop has your car in his
sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to slow
down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a
radar signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the
cooperation of a local cop and found that his unit reads random
numbers when my car approached him. It is suprisingly easy to make
a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little semiconductor called
a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with the 5 to
10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonater). An
8 to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a
car's 12v system. However, the correct construction and tuning of
the cavity is difficult without good microwave measurement
equipment. Police radars commonly operate on the K band at 22 ghz.
Or more often on the X band at 10.525 ghz. most microwave intruder
alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type
transmitter/receiver combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts
at 10.525 ghz. These units work perfectly as jammers. If you
cannot get one locally, write to Microwave Associates in
Burlington, Massachusettes and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a
plastic box on the dash or in a weather-proff enclosure behind the
PLASTIC grille. Switch on the power when on an open highway. The
unit will not jam radar to the side or behind the car so don't go
speeding past the radar trap. An interesting phenomena you will
notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are using
detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs
and bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and
triggering their radar detectors! HAVE FUN!

Phone related vandalism

2010-08-02T20:42:00.001-07:00
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be
able to ruin someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is
go to their house and find the green junction box that interfaces
their line (and possibly some others in the neighborhood) with the
major lines. These can be found just about anywhere but they are
usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a
sledge hammer or a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their
phone cable. Now cut it into segments so it can't be fixed but
must be replaced (There is a week's worth of work for 'em!!)
Another place to phuck with lines is in new developments. When
houses/apartments/condos are still in the plywood and dirt stage,
the lines are run into junxion boxes. When the crew goes home for
the day, plan your attack. Just destroy the shit out of the box,
then replace the cover. Watch em' go nuts as they try to figure
out where the line broke in the walls

Do ya hate school?

2010-08-02T20:38:00.001-07:00
- One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call
in a bomb threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have
to check them all, whilst you can slip away for an hour or two.
You can even place a fake bomb (in any locker but YOURS!). They
might cancel school for a week while they investigate (of course,
you will probably have to make it up in the summer...).

- Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and
flush it down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).

- Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.

- Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards
inside if they are (gag) IBM.

- Make friends with student assistants and have them change your
grades when the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report
cards.

- Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and
grind it into the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!

- Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal
is a fascist.

- Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.

-Get a virus from The Black Gate BBS, and infect their computers!
Most likely they use WordPerfect, Excel, and shit like that.

- USE YOUR IMAGINATION!

Ways to send a car to Hell

2010-08-02T20:37:00.002-07:00
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only
the ones that are the most fun (for you), the most destructive
(for them), and the hardest to trace (for the cops).

- Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the
way through the pavement!

- Tape a CO2 bomb to the hood, axel, gas tank, wheel, muffler,
etc.)

- Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball,
or just about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
Plastic deforms and dilutes into gas. The final result is much
harder to inject into the engine, possibly causing valve replacement.

- Put potatoes, rocks, banannas, or anything that will fit, into
the tailpipe. Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the
tailpipe.

- Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...

- Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.

- Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like
this:
ÚÄÄ¿ (Revised ill. 4.14)
³ ³
³ ³
³ ³
³ ³
³ ÚÙ
³ À¿
ÀÄÄÙ

Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until
you catch the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device
is also called a SLIM JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar
detector, etc. Now destroy the inside. (A sharp knife does wonders
on the seats!)

Paint Bombs

2010-08-02T20:37:00.001-07:00
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a
refastenable lid, a nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple,
or some gross color is perfect!), and a quantity of dry ice. Place
the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice in. Quicky place
the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can time
this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to
the size of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed
off at someone, you could place it on their doorstep, knock on the
door, and then run!! Paint will fly all over the place HAHAHA!!

Letter Bombs

2010-08-02T20:36:00.000-07:00
- You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my
recipe, but substitute iron fillings for rust.

- Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum
to 25% iron. This mixture will burn violently in a closed space
(such as an envelope). This bring us to our next ingredient...

- Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope.
You know, the type that is double layered... Seperate the layers
and place the mild thermite in the main section, where the letter
would go. Then place magnesium powder in the outer layer. There is
your bomb!!

- Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain.
Just keep experimenting until you get something that works. The
fuse is just that touch explosive I have told you about in another
one of my anarchy files. You might want to wrap it like a long
cigarette and then place it at the top of the envelope in the
outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When the touch
explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn
the mild thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at
least burn the fuck out of your enemy (it does wonders on human
flesh!).

Touch Explosives

2010-08-02T20:35:00.000-07:00
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in
large quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a
snap-n-pop, but more powerful), use this recipe:

- Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will
not dissolve into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia
and dry out the crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you
dried the thermite (in other words, just let it sit overnight!).

- Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch
explosive. Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully!
Friction sets 'em off!) and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh?
They are fun to put on someone's chair. Add a small fish sinker to
them and they can be thrown a long distance (good for crowds,
football games, concerts, etc.) Have fun!

.... Thermite Incendiaries and Formulas ....

2010-08-02T20:33:00.002-07:00
DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures
is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are capable of
burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next to impossible to
extinguish. If you make them you accept all responsibility for their
possesion and use. You also accept all responsibility for your own stupidity
and carelessness. This information is intended solely to educate.
All Formulas are by weight Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures
in which a reactive metal reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces
a lot of heat, slag and pure metal. The most common themite is ferroaluminum
thermite, made from aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide).
When it burns it produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron. Thermite is
usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick of thermite
was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was done burning,
only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block was very warped
out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block. Ferro-thermite
produces about 930 calories per gram. The usual proportions of ferro-thermite
are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide. The iron oxide usually used is not rust
(Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4). Rust will work but you may want to adjust the
mixture to about 77% rust. The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow
down the burning rate. The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and
compressed into a suitable container. A first fire mix is poured on top and
ignited. NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are
not shock or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000 degrees F. A first
fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough
to light the thermite reliably.

A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
Sulfur 2 parts

Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely
powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse
and burns intensely. One problem with thermites is the difference in weight
between the aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to separate out
rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to
hold the chemicals to eachother. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite,
this formula uses sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is
the thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur. Iron Oxide 70 % Aluminum 23 %
Sulfur 7 %. Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at
325 degrees F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot
sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few
minutes to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it
is still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the
diasite to hold about 10-15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it
forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with
water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be
made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The
resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.

CAST THERMITE:
This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a solid
mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it
makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts Fine and Coarse
Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a
mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates out
on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun for
one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours. Drill it out
for a first fire mix when dry.

THERMITE BOMB:
Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and
substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of
first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil. Insert a
waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse.
Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece
spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of
the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of themold with the
cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled
mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold.
The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about
an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with
the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the
ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN! The
fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the
thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite
and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. The
thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around.
Use this carefully!

THERMITE WELL:
To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4 in.
hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel over the hole.
Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite and insert a
first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This
should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well over your target
and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns,
making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the
well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small
delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten
iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of the crucible. The standoff
allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the crucible. The force of the
dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate
up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different configurations to get
maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot coated with a magnesium
oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take the cast thermite
formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. This produces a fair amount of iron
plus a very liquid slag.

THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION:
This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want to
make it before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any
dimensions of containers or weights of charges because of the availability of
parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general
description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND. Make a
thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be electrically
ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor side put a
small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz. Drill a small
hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the hole.
Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement. Try ferrule
cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the end caps
with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a thermite
charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the thermite is electrically
ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting of the flash
powder charge. Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal
container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep
the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires
out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof
epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline
works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is
done. The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires.
When the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the
container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When
the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and making
a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot thermite
slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The result
is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For the
pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve
the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. But ask yourself, do
you really want to make this?

EXOTIC THERMITES:
Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal flourides-
magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound in the mix-
ture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely corrosive and
reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere
contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong
first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the teflon and
the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the
burning mixture. If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides
of low energy metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead
flouride and 10% aluminum.

Warning:
Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately equal to
cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and
aluminum. When this burns, it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts
water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-
lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have
to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but
it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of
magnesium works well. Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite
fires are either smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the
thermite but it does help contain it and block some of the heat. The other
way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This helps to
break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small amount of
water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water and
release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from
the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch fire even though no
sparks or flame touch them.

Thermite II... or A better way to make Thermite

2010-08-02T20:33:00.001-07:00
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it.
The first step is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is
a good way to make large quantities in a short time:

- Get a DC convertor like the one used on a train set. Cut the
connector off, seperate the wires, and strip them both.

- Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium
chloride (which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water
conductive.

- Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you
plugged the convertor in...) and let them sit for five minutes.
One of them will start bubbling more than the other. This is the
POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do this test right, the final
product will be the opposite (chemically) of rust, which is RUST
ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS useful!).

- Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now
put the negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight
and in the morning scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until
you got a bunch of rust on the bottom of the glass. Be generous
with your rust collection. If you are going through the trouble of
making thermite, you might as well make a lot, right?

- Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a
cookie sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside
overnight. It should be an orange-brown color (although I have
seen it in many different colors! Sometimes the color gets fucked
up, what can I say... but it is still iron oxide!)

- Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot
until it is red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure alluminum
filinos which can be bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum
tube or bar. The ratio or iron oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3
grams.

- Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...

- Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to
ignite. However, a magnesium ribbon (which is sorta hard to find..
call around) will do the trick. It takes the heat from the
burning magnesium to light the thermite.

- Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile
onto his hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with
the blow torch. Now chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood,
the block, the axle, and the pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal
mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another idea is to use
thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes. HAVE FUN!!

See file 219.txt for Thermite IV, the BEST way to make Thermite..

How to make a CO2 bomb

2010-08-02T20:32:00.003-07:00
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it
or whatever. With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the
powder and wick to fit in easily. Fill the cartridge with black
powder and pack it in there real good by tapping the bottom of the
cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!). Insert a fuse.
I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs
from the cops after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run
like hell! It does wonders for a row of mailboxes (like the ones
in apartment complexes), a car (place under the gas tank), a
picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth (place right
under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!

High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox rev. 4.14

2010-08-02T20:32:00.001-07:00
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at
least once considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching
unlocked phone company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build
one. We did, and named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color
of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a
phone that can be attached to the outside of a person's house. To
fabricate a beigebox, follow along.

---------Construction and Use---------
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of
the device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green,
yellow, and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter:
the red (ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not neccessary
for this project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and
the tip. Take a modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There
should be a grey jack with four wires (red, green, yellow & black)
leading out of it. To the end of the red wire attach a red aligator clip.
To the end of the green wire attatch a green aligator clip. The yellow
and black wires can be removed, although I would only set them aside so
that you can use the modular jack in future projects. Now insert your
telephone's modular plug into the modular jack. That's it. This particular
model is nice because it is can be easily made, is inexpensive, uses
common parts that are readily available, is small, is lightweight,
and does not require the destruction of a phone.

------------Beige Box Uses------------
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it,
you must know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be
of any of Bell switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e.
remote switching centers, bridgin heads, cans, etc.). To open most Bell
Telephone switching apparatus, you must have a 7/16 inch hex driver
(or a good pair of needle nose pliers work also).
This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately
1/8 of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked,
then you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks.
However, we have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have
opened your output device, you should see a mass of wires connected to
terminals. On most output devices, the terminals should be labeled "T"
(Tip -- if not labeled, it is usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if
not labeled, usually on the right).

Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to
remember which is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip
(Ring) to the "R" (Ring) terminal.
Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip) terminal.

Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator
clips so that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure
they are firmly attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone.
Dial ANI to find out the number you are using (you wouldn't want to use
your own). Here are some practicle aplications:

> Eavesdropping
> Long distance, static free free fone calls to phriends
> Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
> Phucking people over
> Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
> Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
> Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line.

Eavesdropping
-------------
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore
reducing the potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping,
it is allways best to be neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone
dialing out, do not panic; but rather hang up, wait, and pick up the
receiver again. The person will either have hung up or tried to complete
their call again. If the latter is true, then listen in, and perhaps you
will find information worthy of blackmail! If you would like to know who
you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on the number.

Dialing Long Distance
---------------------
This section is self explanitory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before
the NPA.

Dialing Direct to Aliance Teleconferencing
------------------------------------------
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there.
I prefer this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception
and are more dificult to come by.

Phucking People Over
--------------------
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will
not have to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition,
since you are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your
phone off the hook, and they will not be able to make or receive calls.
This can be extremely nasty because no one would expect the cause
of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
----------------------
This is also self explanitary and can provide hours of entertainment.
Simply ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced
to your line. This also corresponds to the previously described section,
Phucking People Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
He he he...

Blue Boxing
-----------
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice
feature if you live in an ESS-equiped prefix, since the calls are, once
again, not traced to your line...

---POTENTIAL RISKS OF BEIGE BOXING----
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicians within the Gestapo,
and result in legal problems. Therefor, I would recomend you:

> Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
> Use more than one output device
> Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real
name on a public BBS concering your occomplishments)
> In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output
device, I recomend you place a piece of transparent tape over
the opening of your output device. Therefor, if it is
opened in your abscence, the tapqe will be displaced and
you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded
on your teritory.

Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for
that special person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the
operator at no risk to you! Think of it as walking into an
enemies house, and using their phone to your heart's content.

Solidox Bombs

2010-08-02T20:31:00.001-07:00
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive
chemical can be bought over the counter: Solidox.

Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can
be bought at Kmart, and various hardware supply shops for around
$7.00. Solidox is used in welding applications as an oxidizing
agent for the hot flame needed to melt metal. The most active
ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler used in many
military applications in the WWII era.

Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you
must have an energy source for an explosion. The most common and
readily available energy source is common household sugar, or
sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the purest energy source,
but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.

Making the mixture:

[1] Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by
one, grind up each of the sticks (preferably with a mortar
and pestle) into the finest powder possible.
[2] The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so
weigh the Solidox powder, and grind up the equivalent amount
of sugar.
[3] Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1
ratio.

It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful
substance that can be used in a variety of applications. A word
of caution: be EXTREMELY careful in the entire process. Avoid
friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a teenager I knew
blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with Solidox.
You have been warned!

SolidOx can no longer be bought in KMart. A plumbing and heating supply
store, or even Sears may have small quantities for sale, at about
$18.00 for 10 stix.

The Arts of Lockpicking II

2010-08-02T20:29:00.000-07:00
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James
Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood,
because that is the only place you are ever going to do it. Even
experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if
they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick access, look
elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.

First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get
him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you
to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't
give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access
to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These
should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend
the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90
degrees). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and smooth
the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock.
Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will
slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver
comes in. It must be small enough for it and your pick to be used
in the same lock at the same time, one above the other. In the
coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the interior of
a lock:
______________________________
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
______________________________/

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the
upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now,
if you push a pin up, it's tendency is to fall back down, right?
That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver
into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the "solved" pins
from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the
screwdriver will turn freely, and the door will open.

Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take
you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that,
you will quickly improve with practice.

Add to TACIV, '94.

Picking Master Locks

2010-08-02T20:28:00.001-07:00
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those
Master combination locks and failed?

The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a
protection scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will
not turn. That was their biggest mistake.

The first number:

Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on.
While pulling on the clasp (part that springs open when you get
the combination right), turn the knob to the left until it will
not move any more, and add five to the number you reach. You now
have the first number of the combination.

The second number:

Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first
number you got. Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first
number once. When you have bypassed the first number, start
pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The knob will
eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove,
pull the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the
next groove, if the knob is stiff, you have the second number of
the combination.

The third number:

After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two
numbers. Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number,
pull on the clasp. The lock will eventually open if you did the
process right.

This method of opening Master locks only works on older models.
Someone informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new
mechanism that is foolproof (for now).

The older models are from 1988-1990. The newer models are being
cracked on as we speak..

Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach

2010-08-02T20:27:00.000-07:00
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound,
and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in
grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as
France and Germany. Common household bleach contains a small
amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.

First off, you must obtain:

[1] A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
[2] A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
[3] A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh
chemicals)
[4] Potassium chloride (sold as a salt substitute at health and
nutrition stores)

Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin
heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of
potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated.
Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer,
and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery
hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.

Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it
is between room temperature and 0 degrees Celcius. Filter out the
crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again
and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.

Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with
distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100
milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils
and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that
form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystalization". These crystals should be relatively
pure potassium chlorate.

Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to
drive off all moisture.

Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this
in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on
90 parts potassium chlorate (the powdered crystals from above)
into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium
chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.

Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid
friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This
explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3
grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block
type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a
blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.

The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides,
etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive
and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You
should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME
caution at all times while performing the processes in this
article.

You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by
writing:

Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762

Credit Card Fraud

2010-08-02T20:26:00.000-07:00
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:

With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is
easy to use someone else's credit card to order the items you have
always desired in life. The stakes are high, but the payoff is
worth it.

Step One: Getting the credit card information

First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit
card number. The best way to get credit card numbers is to take
the blue carbons used in a credit card transaction at your local
department store. These can usually be found in the garbage can
next to the register, or for the more daring, in the garbage
dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit
card fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction
sheet, making things much more difficult. This is where your
phone comes in handy.

First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much
information as possible about them. Then, during business hours,
call in a very convincing voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from
the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations Department. We have
been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers
appearing on your Visa card for verification." Of course, use
your imagination! Believe it or not, many people will fall for
this ploy and give out their credit information.

Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you
should be able to decipher the information given.

Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies

Card examples:

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

[American Express]
XXXX XXXXXX XXXXX
MM/Y1 THRU MM/Y2
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the
expiration date. The American Express Gold Card has numbers
XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered for up to $5000.00,
even if the card holder is broke.

[Mastercard]
5XXX XXXX XXXX XXXX
XXXX AAA DD-MM-YY MM/YY
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering
process. The first date is when the card was new, and the
second is when the card expires. The most frequent number
combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted
lists, so check these first.

[Visa]
4XXX XXX(X) XXX(X) XXX(X)
MM/YY MM/YY*VISA
JOE SHMOE

Explanation:
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost
everywhere. The "*VISA" is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or
followed with a special code. These codes are as follows:

[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card

Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to
use. Classic Cards are newer, harder to reproduce cards with
decent backing. Premier Cards are Classic Cards with Preferred
coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX, 4254 5123 6000
XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards
are IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although
they are usually covered for large purchases.

Step Three: Testing credit

You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express
credit card number, with the victim's address, zip code, and phone
number. By the way, if you have problems getting the address,
most phone companies offer the Address Tracking Service, which is
a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the
balance of credit on the credit card (to make sure you don't run
out of money), and you must also make sure that the card isn't
stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number that
businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you
go to a department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a
credit card purchase. He/she will usually call a phone number,
give the credit information, and then give what is called a
"Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down on or
around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and
copy them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they
dial and wait for the 8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you
call the number, in a calm voice, read off the account number,
merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The credit bureau
will tell you if it is ok, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it
back to them to check it. Ignore this number completely, for it
serves no real purpose. However, once you do this, the bank
removes dollars equal to what you told them, because the card was
supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you can trick the
operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember
at all times that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to
check out the card for a purchase. Act like you are talking with
a customer when he/she "cancels".

Step Four: The drop

Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the
package sent. NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are
typical drop sites:

[1] An empty house

An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the
package UPS, and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work
days, 8 to 6. Could you please leave the package on the back door
step?" You can find dozens of houses from a real estate agent by
telling them you want to look around for a house. Ask for a list
of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.

[2] Rent A Spot

U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and
signed for. End your space when the package arrives.

[3] People's houses

Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there.
Call ahead saying that "I called the store and they sent the
package to the wrong address. It was already sent, but can you
keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable way if you keep
calm when talking to the people.

Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not
deliver to a post office box, and many people have been caught in
the past attempting to use a post office box. Also, when you have
determined a drop site, keep an eye on it for suspicious
characters and cars that have not been there before.

Step Five: Making the transaction

You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the
necessary billing information, and a good drop site.

The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses.
It is in your best interest to place the phone call from a pay
phone, especially if it is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call,
don't try to disguise your voice, thinking you will trick the
salesperson into believing you are an adult. These folks are
trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears
on card, phone number, billing address, expiration date, method of
shipping, and product. Ask if they offer UPS Red shipping (next
day arrival), because it gives them less time to research an
order. If you are using American Express, you might have a bit of
a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address.
Also, if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up.
Simply talk your way out of the situation, so you won't encourage
investigation on the order.

If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of
charge. Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be
careful, and try not to order anything over $500. In some states,
UPS requires a signature for anything over $200, not to mention
that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as well as
credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a
couple of years. Good luck!

First compiled in JRII..

Counterfeiting Money

2010-08-02T20:24:00.000-07:00
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a
book on photo offset printing, for this is the method used in
counterfeiting US currency. If you are familiar with this method
of printing, counterfeiting should be a simple task for you.

Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which
involves etching a metal block. Since etching a metal block is
impossible to do by hand, photo offset printing comes into the
process.

Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency
with a camera, and putting the negatives on a piece of masking
material (usually orange in color). The stripped negatives,
commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a lithographic plate
with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time,
these plates are wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.

The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick
360. Make 2 negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of
the back side. After developing them and letting them dry, take
them to a light table. Using opaque on one of the portrait sides,
touch out all the green, which is the seal and the serial numbers.
The back side does not require any retouching, because it is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered
(lined up correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you
need another serial number, shoot 1 negative of the portrait side,
cut out the serial number, and remove the old serial number from
the flat replacing it with the new one.

Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color:
black, and 2 shades of green (the two shades of green are created
by mixing inks). Now you are ready to burn the plates. Take a
lithographic plate and etch three marks on it. These marks must
be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short edges.
Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and
place it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the
edge of the plate. Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and
cover up the exposed area you have already burned. Burn that, and
do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat up one more mark.
Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a separate
plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images
on each plate with an equal space between each bill.

The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for
most situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content.
By the way, Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does
the job well. Take the paper and load it into the press. Be sure
to set the air, buckle, and paper thickness right. Start with the
black plate (the plate without the serial numbers). Wrap it
around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run more
than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while
that is printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back
side. You will need to add some white and maybe yellow to the
serial number ink. You also need to add black to the back side.
Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the press and print
the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another
and repeat. Keep doing this until you have as many different
numbers as you want. Then cut the bills to the exact size with a
paper cutter. You should have printed a large amount of money by
now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure white. To
dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea
bags, and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment
with this). Dip one of the bills in and compare it to a genuine
US bill. Make the necessary adjustments, and dye all the bills.
Also, it is a good idea to make them look used. For example,
wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.

As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset
printing, most of the information in this article will be fairly
hard to understand. Along with getting a book on photo offset
printing, try to see the movie "To Live and Die in LA". It is
about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good job of
showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The
Poor Man's James Bond".

If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other
method available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser
copier. The Canon can replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color,
including US currency. But, once again, the main problem in
counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good luck!